Arzhaan 2

The next morning saw a repeat of the week's morning routine: wake-up, eat breakfast, brush teeth, and walk to school. Classes were to be had all day, and since the groups with me were new, I was able to show off my pictures and souvenirs as I had the past couple of days. Yet the real excitement began in the evening. I had learned during the trip up the mountain that the 10th graders enjoy volleyball. They invited me to play and we picked Thursday evening at 4:00 PM as game time. I arrived without sporting clothes (having conveniently left them in America) and settled in to test my volleyball skills, which had not been used for a very long time. Turns out that such skills never die and I play the game just as I did in high school, in other words, terribly. We started off simply playing a game of hitting the ball back and forth between two opposing sides. Now, while most may find entertainment in the skill demonstrated in keeping the ball from hitting the floor and in how individuals can delicately bounce the ball back and forth, I on the other hand find enjoyment in seeing how high I can hit the ball. I can proudly say that I reached the ceiling probably around five times. The others were much better athletes and I am sure that I annoyed them to a small degree with my strategy, but we all had a good laugh. Then we formed up into teams to play an actual match. Once again I demonstrated my complete lack of skill and after ten minutes of gametime, I decided to take the bench and observe. My decision was rewarded as the school children are just brilliant athletes. Eventually, even two of their teachers joined in, their gym instructor and volleyball coach. It was all good fun, but as the evening wore on, I decided to return home to rest and prepare for the next day.

In the evening, more food was to be had, especially dessert. Robert, in addition to being a dancer, is also a wonderful cook. Very quickly, he whipped up a wonderful treat with cottage cheese and a crumbling crust. It was delicious and large portions were consumed under the influence of conversation and tea. As the clock struck midnight, it was once again time to head to bed. I stepped outside to visit the restroom and admired the night sky. As I had noticed during my visit to another village in December, the stars out here are amazing and seem as if they can be picked right out of the sky! I stopped and just stared up. Joining the stars in the solitude was the village's television tower. I had noticed it when I first arrived and during my first night, I was startled by its large, red lights that seemed to keep watch over Arzhaan like all-seeing eyes. I shuffled back inside and settled into bed.

Friday was spent in expectation of the evening's activities. We had announced a talent show for the students of the school which was to be held on Friday evening. Classes flew by as usual and were full of laughter as well as silence at some points. The time for the talent show was scheduled for 6:00 PM, but according to the theory of Tuvan time, it started much later than that. The evening was a moment of Tuvan time in practice. By Friday, I was already well adjusted to the concept and well prepared. I simply took my place at the judges table and waited patiently while everyone took their places and the necessary equipment was made ready.

Once we began, the performances were quite spectacular. Overall, there were six acts: three with dancing and three reciting poetry. One of the kids got up on stage and started breakdancing amazingly. To be honest, I am very bad at judging and picking someone who is "the best". But, it had to be done, so first, second, and third places were assigned, with three additional prizes for best poetry, strong effort, and good teamwork also handed out. When the show wrapped up, a dance party was thrown together and we all gathered in a circle to groove it. I did my best to light up the dance floor, but I am not sure how well it worked. We also played the limbo game to music and the breakdancer from the talent show pulled off his moves once more. I was told that dinner was waiting for me, so I headed to the cafeteria to eat, this time alone. Awaiting me was soup and (take a guess!) meat. I ate heartily and decided to return to see what unfolded at the school after I had left. It seemed the action had moved outside to the soccer field. Once again I was invited to take part (they apparently had not caught on to the fact that I am a horrible athlete). I ran back and forth and charged at the opposing team, feigning I had any idea what I was doing. As during volleyball, I eventually decided to stand on the side lines and observe the action. It was during this time that I began to put various pieces of the puzzle of life in Arzhaan together.

Life in a small village or town is difficult and such communities struggle around the world with problems such as unemployment, alcohol and drug abuse, and how to keep their youth from falling into these deadly cycles. The community of Arzhaan is taking positive steps to tackle these issues, and their strategy boils down to love and attention. The principal of the school for example will physically call upon parents of students who are not performing well in class. If a student is perhaps sleeping during class often, the teachers will inform the principal and she will go knocking on the parents' door asking them why their child is sleeping in class. Furthermore, they have turned the school into something more than just a place for study. It has become the local community center. The kids gather there almost every evening to play and hang out. Not only are the grounds open but also the building. itself. The kids themselves are just wonderful in so many ways. It happens often in such situations that different age groups will divide up and 10th graders will not associate with 4th graders for example. On the soccer field though, everyone was involved and the older grades made sure that the younger graders got their chance to play. It was adorable and inspiring to watch. I stayed at the school until everyone started to head their separate ways: it was time for dinner, or second dinner in my case.

I was greeted at home by more food and a cake! (Time for a side note: cakes in the Russian Federation are just excellent) It was my last night in Arzhaan and therefore the evening was guided by a somber tone. We all chatted as before around the dining room table and the clock struck midnight.

I woke up Saturday morning and packed a bit before heading off to my last day at the school. I taught my final classes in Arzhaan and said my goodbyes. I expected my farewell to be a quiet one, but was greeted by a surprise after lunch.
There were supposed to be a couple more classes to teach after eating, but I was directed to the activity hall where I was greeted by all the classes I had taught the past week (basically the whole school) and seated in front before the stage. Robert's dancers came out and performed a couple of acts and a couple of individual students sang and one even demonstrated her karate skills. Then representatives from each of the classes got up and thanked me for my time with them and presented me with gifts. The 4th grade in particular presented me with gifts that they had made in school. I was overwhelmed with gratitude and was left speechless. I bid farewell to all and returned to the principal's house for tea and a final chat and to pack up my remaining belongings.

I can say that it was difficult to leave Arzhaan. It was a chance to relax and teach in a less stressful environment as well as offering me the opportunity to contemplate my time in Tuva. The peace and quiet soon gave way to the sounds of the city and bustle of me as we came into Kyzyl. I came up the stairs of my building and opened the door to my apartment. Setting down my things, I knew I was back. No cows roamed the streets and I had to cook for myself.

My wonderful hosts in Arzhaan!

Arzhaan 1

This past week (April 21st - April 26th), I had the opportunity to escape the big city life of Kyzyl and head to the quiet, country village of Arzhaan for some rest and English teaching. The whole experience was fulfilling, both in a physical and spiritual way. The fresh air and physical activity (of climbing a mountain for example) recharged me and refreshed my body, while teaching at the local school in the village gave me energy and renewed spiritual strength for the rest of my time in Tuva.

The village of Arzhaan is situated in northern Tuva, near the border with the Republic of Khakassia. Heading north, you take a lonely exit west down a very bumpy road which ends abruptly right before you enter Arzhaan. The reason for the road's sudden terminus is tied directly to the events of 1991, when the prosperous days of the Soviet Union ended for this part of the world. The government collapsed as did the road construction authority. The locals joke that if the Soviet Union had just lasted another year, they would have a road. That was not the case however, and getting around the village is best served by going on foot, as the dirt takes whatever shape nature commands throughout the seasons, making any ride slow and bumpy. In all actuality though, the place is small enough to easily get anywhere by walking, though that is my opinion really an option only during late spring/early summer. During the winter however, the story may be a bit different. In early Spring, as I have seen from personal experience, transportation of any sort apart from a boat does not deal well with the terrain. This was in fact my second time in Arzhaan. The first time was at the end of March, as the snows were melting. I was invited to take part in a conference devoted to the issues of teaching foreign languages in the Republic of Tyva. The host for this year's conference was the school in Arzhaan. The mountains and fresh air amazed me then, but what also caught my eye was the ground. I believe in this case a picture will speak better than words:

The entrance to the school in late March.

Though really, this is a small price to pay for the beauty of enjoying dirt roads, because the feeling of earth beneath your feet is so much more desirable than that of concrete.

My arrival on the 21st to Arzhaan was a whirlwind from the beginning and an excellent lesson in the concept of "Tuvan time". For those not familiar with this subject, the idea is that, as one Tuvan academic put it, "Tuvans live in space." What this means is that an indicated time is never concrete. If an event is set to start at 3:00 PM for example, it will not start at 3:00 PM and probably not even at 3:30 PM. Everything will start late and everyone else will be late. This is not however, just about being late. It is much bigger than that. I'm late, people are late. In America and in Europe, people freak out when stuff does not start on time or when a person arrives late. You can be ridiculed. As I have noticed in Tuva though, the idea of "space" here really permeates all layers of society. A concrete understanding of time simply does not exist. With my American upbringing, this was very difficult to get used to. After living in St. Petersburg for a year I started to arrive late for classes and events, but that did not prepare me for Tuva. All of this leads up to the fact that originally I was supposed to leave on Sunday, the 20th, for Arzhaan, but Sunday turned to Monday with a departure time of 8:00 AM which then turned to 9:00 AM. We arrived and there was no sense of being rushed, nor ridicules for being late. Everyone just accepted the fact that we arrived.

My home for the week.

My time in Arzhaan began the same way it ended, with food. We arrived and settled down in the school principal's office to a light lunch of pirozhki and salad. I was quite famished at this point and I thought this was our lunch, so I ate quite a bit. Turns out this was only the "after the road meal". We still had yet to settle down for lunch; only 1 hour away. Before lunch though, it was time to meet with the school's teacher of English. This woman is incredible, considering the workload set before her. While the school in Arzhaan is not especially big (I do not recall the actual numbers at this moment), having all the students of the school for class (that's 1st/2nd grade to 11th grade) at some point throughout the week (Russian school week: Monday-Saturday) is a challenge, especially because there is not enough time to devote your energy to each class as the only teacher they have for English. Despite these challenges, Choduraa (the teacher) works very hard to teach English at this school. It was a pleasure teaching and laughing with her and learning from her.

The rest of the day quickly flew by and my stomach was happily satisfied with Tuvan delights (in one word: meat). I settled in at the principal's house and enjoyed the quiet their space offered. We chatted long into the night about mostly everything. Then it was time for bed, as teaching at a school starts earlier than that at the university.

My alarm sounded early, 7:00 AM. Classes on Tuesday were filled with pictures and stories of my life in America. All eagerly looked on as I showed photographs of my family and friends. Then, I pulled out my trick card: my passport. I have a joke with my girlfriend that whenever there is silence in the classroom, all I have to do is whip out my passport and the issue resolves itself. This is of course not always true, but it is a great conversation starter for when I first meet a group of students. And just as an "fyi", this trick works on me as well with ANY type of foreign document. At 2:30 PM, my teaching day was finished, a wild change from what I am accustomed to - usually in Kyzyl, I only start teaching at 3:00 PM and finish between 6:30 and 7:00 PM. I must say that I enjoy having classes during the morning and day as my energy and attention are more focused. It was then time for lunch, an event that usually passes without incident. Usually.

That day was an exception as I stepped into the small cafeteria. I settled down at the table with some other teachers as well as the principal of the school. We started chatting and the cooks brought out a big plate of meat as well as soup. I finished my soup and reached for a good-sized chunk of meat and sank my teeth in to enjoy the delight of fresh meat. This is usually how one consumes meat in Tuva, literally eating it off the bone. Well, I happened to pick up the collarbone, which apparently is the one piece of an animal's body that is not supposed to be eaten with your teeth, but rather divided with utensils, with pieces distributed to everyone at the table. I missed that memo and with a collective gasp, all eyes focused on me as I held that collar bone in my mouth.

Ooops.

The situation was explained and forgiveness asked for. Everyone had a good laugh and I put that collarbone right back on the plate from whence it came. I selected another piece of meat to eat, one that would not summon bad luck upon me. Lunch was finished and I headed home for some rest before the afternoon/evening's adventure: climbing a mountain!

At 3:00 PM, I met with the 10th graders outside of the principal's house. One-by-one they arrived on bike, bringing an extra one for me. As it has been ages since I've ridden a bike (okay, 6 months, but still), this alone made the experience delightful. It was at this point that I became acquainted with a most extraordinary individual: 8th grader Pavel. Pavel is Russian, but instead of sticking just to his knowledge of the Russian language, he has also learned Tuvan. He can understand and speak the language. This for me is just awesome and I applaud Pavel for his efforts!

Our prize: barely visible from the base.

We set off and met up with another 10th grader on the edge of town and a bit further on, of course, one more of their number met up with us on horseback. It is Tuva after all. Now, as I have mentioned in earlier posts, roads here are bad for those driving or riding in cars. Well on bike, they are worse. Needless to say, I was quite sore by the time we reached the base of the mountain, without any climbing having been commenced. We walked our bikes uphill a bit and parked them in the grass. Then we commenced our ascent. Our friend on horseback showed off his skills and set off at a fast gallop. He stopped at a tree a little way up and tied his horse off at the tree, waiting for the rest of us to arrive, gasping (or maybe that was just me).

The lighthouse and my adventurous companions.

This mountain is made up of one tall peak and some smaller peaks surrounding it (or maybe they are all mountains, I have no idea. I am from Illinois and it is all a mountain to me). We ascended to the first height. The place afforded a spectacular view of the valley and the village. My assurances to the students that I am no athlete were affirmed by this point. With much huffing and puffing, I arrived at the top. There is an old tradition in Tuva to set a stone down after conquering a particularly difficult hill or mountain. Here there was already a small pile of rocks and I added my own to its collective in triumph. But that was not the end. I stared up in lust at the next, much higher part of the mountain. I exchanged a longing look with my comrades and we set off once again. It was easy-going at first, but then it suddenly got really steep. This did not however stop a couple of the students from quite literally running to the top. They bounced on the rocks and were up in a jiffy. I on the other hand huffed and puffed my way up and finally stumbled unto the height of all heights (for me at least). From the top, everything was visible. The gods that day blessed us with beautiful weather and clear skies, although it was quite breezy up there. The the crest is what the locals call a "lighthouse". Similar structures are to be found throughout Tuva, indicating a particularly sacred place. I must add that the structure is metal, meaning somebody climbed this mountain with metal bars in order to construct it on top. Epic. I was only able to ponder this for a bit as my stomach was demanding some reward for providing me the energy to conquer the height. I was not alone in this desire. We all opened our bags and each pulled out their contribution to our picnic. We feasted with delight.

 We took pictures, and enjoyed the scenery and fresh air. Eventually, it was time to descend once again. It was at that point that my muscles realized what I had just done - climbed a mountain. In any case, the descent was more easily accomplished than the ascent. Those who had run up the moment enjoyed doing the same on the way down. We reached our bikes and horse and set off to the sunset on our return to the village. If the roads made me sore on the way to the mountain, then the road back was just torture. Little by little I bumped my way back to the principal's house. Coming into the village, I felt like a champion. Adventure was had and it was sweet! Everyone split off to their separate homes as did I, leaving my bike with its owner. My companions and guides were wonderful. In celebration of the conquest of the mountain, I was given the opportunity to go to the bath house, and it was simply wonderful! Then, aching, I gobbled up treats and had tea and then ate again. Exercise is so wonderful. I was exhausted and as the clock struck eleven, I settled into bed. My sleep however was not as sweet as I would have desired. During our adventure, some of the 10th graders had found ticks on them and I was repeatedly told to be aware of what was crawling on my body. All night I had the sensation that ticks were everywhere on me, something which is not particularly conducive to sleeping.

Back home.

By morning the feeling of ticks had subsided, probably due to the sudden drop in temperature. The day before I had climbed a mountain and enjoyed clear skies and warm weather. That morning I woke up to howling winds, gray skies, and snow. Damn. Furthermore the power was out in the house. After getting ready for the day, I learned that all classes were cancelled except for those held by the 4th and 10th grades, as these two classes were undergoing testing as part of a school-wide assessment. There was snow everywhere outside and I bundled up for class as the heating in the building was not the best. During lessons, I watched as snow accumulated outside. When lessons ended, I left to go back home, being picked up by one of the 10th graders. There was snow everywhere! It was just incredible how quickly the weather turned. I stepped out of the car and was about to make my way inside when the English teacher called the student who gave me a ride, saying I needed to go back to the school. It seems I forgot about lunch! Back in the cafeteria, lunch progressed  without incident and I was then allowed to go home and rest. I settled in at home, drinking tea and thinking warm thoughts. I was waiting until 3:00 PM, when I said I would show the kids "Shrek". When I left the house to return to the school, the temperature had risen and most of the snow had melted. Such a sudden shift!

I showed Shrek and laughed all the way through just as I had 13 years ago (let's take a moment and think about this: Shrek came out in 2001. WHAT?!!!). The students enjoyed it as well and I said goodbye as the movie ended. I was planning to show a second film for the older students later on, so I stuck around for an hour to wait. As the appointed hour passed and no one came, I was persuaded to abandon my post for homemade pelmeni (dumplings). We eagerly enjoyed the dinner feast and I decided to head back home for the day. I arrived back to find the principal and her husband preparing dinner. Time to eat again! This time, bratwurst, mashed potatoes and beer were served. I was quite stuffed by the end of that meal. Now, the principal's husband, Robert, is a dancer who performed with a famous and talented dancing group called "Sayani", based in Kyzyl. He toured Russia and the world with them, and after dinner we settled down to watch a recording of a concert they performed in Taiwan. It was quite spectacular. In the village, Robert teaches dancing to the students at the school. Not that I am any expert, but I would say he has tapped into fresh talent! Returning to the dinner table, we poured tea and chatted until midnight, when it was time for bed.

Stay tuned for part two!

Russia, Ukraine, Joey, and the United States

Seeing two people you dearly love fight each other is painful. The feelings aroused are ones of anger and confusion, as you do not know how to react. In any other situation, you would rush to the aid of your loved one, but in this case, who are you to help? You want to continue loving them both and for them to heal the rift between themselves. The current contention between the United States of America and the Russian Federation is for me such a fight, provoking conflicted feelings inside of me. I love neither one of them more or less than the other. I was born and raised in the U.S. I spent my formative years there figuring out who I am and what I believe with plenty of stumbling along the way. It was then in Russia where I found a place for the person I had become. The life I found in Russia suited the Joey that had formed in the U.S. I owe friends and family in both countries for the person I am today and the successes under my belt. It is difficult to read the news, see the lists of sanctions adopted by the United States and Europe, knowing that these actions are not directed at some faraway place, but rather at the country which I currently call home and at people who are my friends and family. The most recent events in the Crimea are sadly only one example of when I have found myself in the awkward position of standing in-between my two beloved countries. The Sochi Olympics of this year were another such episode, though to a much less pronounced degree. Yet despite my feelings towards both countries, of late it has become problematic to understand the point-of-view of the United States, much less to support it.

"What is Russia?"
This question defines my early searching in regard to the biggest country on the map. As I grew up in the 1990s, the answer was commonly mixed with old Cold War rhetoric about communism being the antithesis to democracy, that Russia was a bad place, etc. Films of the day spoke of stolen Soviet nuclear weapons and a corrupted country full of bad people looking to do harm to the United States. It was towards the end of the first decade of the 2000s that I began my own Russia story and delved into the richness of this country head first. At the end of 2011, I celebrated New Years in Russia, twenty years after the end of the Soviet Union. Yet the rhetoric changed very little outside of Russia regarding the country. Many films released during this time gave the "bad guy roles" to Russian and Eastern European personages. Video games, such as the popular Modern Warfare series, pitted the United States and the "free world" against Russia and
Russian-speaking evildoers. It would be erroneous to say that such feelings about the United States do not exist in Russia, but they do not manifest themselves in the media as such as in the U.S. Countless jokes and internet memes were made about Russia during this time as well, out of humor of course, but this humor has its source in the ideas supported by the general consensus about Russia. In January of 2014, the international media descended upon Russia for the Sochi Olympics. They found conditions to be less than desirable for their tastes, and responded by posting pictures of their hotel rooms as well as other areas of the Olympic Village on their social media accounts, jokingly and sarcastically belaying their complaints. Reviewing several of these photos, their tone conveys the sense that because of the Olympics location, it should come of no surprise that these problems exist.

These views of Russia are unfortunately not restrained to the media, but manifest themselves also on the global arena. U.S. foreign and military policy following the events of 1991 throughout the former Soviet Union hint at unresolved issues as concern Russia. The continued existence of NATO in addition to its expansion over the past twenty years brings into question the motives behind these actions. NATO was formed following World War II to defend the areas of the North Atlantic. Deducing against whom these areas were to be defended of course did not take that long, as the lines of the Cold War had already been drawn. Later, a similar organization among the Eastern European states headed by the Soviet Union was established, the Warsaw Pact. The purpose of NATO's founding is no secret. Yet how does an organization that was founded for the sole purpose of defending Europe from Soviet aggression still justify its existence today? From the Russian perspective, this is in fact an important question. It is especially relevant in light of recent NATO expansions that include former Warsaw Pact countries. While the motivations behind these countries desires to join the alliance are more than likely manifold, their acceptance into NATO can be interpreted as further steps to alienate Russia as well as to demonstrate Russia's loss of control over these areas. It adds insult to injury in the Russian view.

Inclusion of these states into NATO can be interpreted as a continuation of the policy of "containment", which defined immediate post-World War II U.S. policy towards the Soviet Union's attempts to promote communist governments throughout the world. American bases popped up in Europe and Asia, forming a ring around the Soviet Union. Missiles with ranging destructive yields were based in NATO countries, yet the end of the Cold War did not see the closure of these bases. What is more, there were plans to add missile defense mechanisms onto NATO territory. These plans included placing missiles in Poland for example. While the plans were cancelled, their effect on Russia is not to be downsized, nor are other initiatives that seek to place foreign troops and military hardware (specifically U.S. troops and hardware) on the soil of former Soviet republics. This is akin to the Soviet Union's move of building missile bases in Cuba. That move was greeted with much fear and apprehension in the United States. The U.S. government would not accept having missiles placed so close to U.S. soil, and the government's response matched its resolve, resulting in the removal of Soviet troops and missiles from the Caribbean. Having NATO troops close to its borders gives Russia the same apprehension, remembering that NATO was founded as an anti-Soviet military alliance. The encirclement of Russia continues, and this time it is drawing closer.

The conclusion to be drawn from these developments is that the United States and the "West" continue to view Russia as a threat. And that is where our thinking becomes very skewed.

The Iron Curtain
The distinction that defined the Cold War was that between "East and West." Such a simple border to draw: on one side freedom and democracy, while the other side was ruled with iron fists while people lived in constant misery. And yet Vienna sits further east than Prague and Eastern Germany, and the Baltic States share a linguistic history far different from the slavic republics and "Eastern Bloc" countries, but we had no problem sticking them into a box and slapping a label on them in order to satisfy our need to draw the line between "us" and "them." Yet it is interesting to ponder the names associated with this border, of which the "Iron Curtain" is perhaps the most well known. The phrase was used with such fervor in an effort to demonstrate just how horrible life was beyond "the wall." It is important of course to not make light of the difficulties that existed for those living in the Soviet Union and allied states, nor to pretend that the freedom of speech and assembly were protected and encouraged. These are features of history and must be understood; however, they are not the only aspects of life in the "East." The "Iron Curtain" was drawn just as much by the rest of the world as by the Soviets. By creating this idea of the Soviet Union as a despotic black hole, we let ourselves be blinded by only the bad. We created an "Iron Curtain" that cut ourselves off from seeing what the Soviet Union had to offer, from understanding the people of the "East" in an effort to bring everyone together.

Soviet history is of course awash with moments of extreme repression, the years of Stalin's rule being the most infamous example. Yet the "thaw" that occurred in US-Soviet relations also had its effect within the USSR. Pictures of life in the Soviet Union do not show scenes akin to Orwell's 1984. The memories held by those who remember Soviet days can be described as happy. People were born; they lived, loved, and died in this country, working and fighting for values that anyone around the world can appreciate. Freedoms were repressed, and the effects of this are still felt today, but the Russian Federation is not the Soviet Union. With the situation in Ukraine and the Crimea, there is all of a sudden talk of the Iron Curtain coming down once again. From within Russia however, very little has changed, especially in Kyzyl. Foreigners are not targeted, rather they are welcomed with open arms. An American film crew recently visited Tuva and spent a week taking pictures and filming the countryside and city without any problems from the authorities, receiving gifts from those they visited. English classes continue, and the American teacher in the city remains unharassed, as do the other foreign students. The unification of Crimea and Russia was greeted with a festival on the main square and then everyone went back to their own lives, because bills must be paid, dinner made, and life continued.

Sanctions and Creating Demons

Kyzyl's rally in support of unification.

Life is continuing, three weeks after Crimea joined the Russian Federation. The event itself was hailed as a long-time coming. Crimea is considered "Russian land" by many, and Ukraine furthermore is not considered an alien state, separate from Russia. As has been echoed by journalists, Ukrainians and Russians share so much more than a border. The histories and cultures of these two places are linked. Families extend across borders, as do friendships. While it is so easy to think of state boundaries as finite measures of where one language, culture, and society ends and another begins, the reality is not so simple. Recalling the ideas of the Iron Curtain, we think we can distinguish two people based solely on what passports they hold, while these two people may see each other as brothers or sisters. This analogy does not coincide with the feelings of all Russians and Ukrainians of course, yet those who live in Crimea do feel this way. With allegations of election fraud always surrounding the political process in the Russian Federation, it is easy to assume that the referendum in Crimea was also corrupted in order to produce a result favorable to the Russian government. Many refuse to recognize the referendum results as legitimate, but it still remains that people voted, voiced their opinion and that now Crimea is a part of the Russian Federation. That is a fact that must be accepted, because support for this event can be found throughout the country. It has been called a reversal of Khrushev's "mistake", who ceded Crimea over to the Ukrainian republic, with no referendum for the people of the peninsula to make their opinions heard. Mikhail Gorbachev supports the unification of Crimea and Russia, calling it the "correction of mistakes made" (Short article on his opinion in Russian). Crimea is simply returning to Russia, where it was before. Therefore the referendum and subsequent unification of Crimea with the Russian Federation are seen in quite the opposite light here than in other places because this time the population of the peninsula was given the chance to make their voices heard. Instead of rewarding the democratic process, many countries see fit to punish self-determination. Sanctions though will not resolve this issue and will instead lead to greater consequences in the future.

Already, voices within Russia, specifically within the government, are calling for more extreme measures to match the sanctions initiated by the United States and the European Union. There is talk of creating a uniquely Russian payment system separate from Visa and Mastercard, along with movements to censor those who oppose the government's actions in regard to Ukraine (several instances of which have already occurred), as well as cries for the boycotting and future ousting of MacDonald's and other American food companies from the territory of the Russian Federation. While the degree of seriousness and feasibility of some of this propositions can come into question, credibility is given to such voices when sanctions are leveled against Russia.In anger and desperation, people will turn to whomever offers them a clear-cut response and a means of maitining their dignity. While the sanctions in the meanwhile may be designed not to hurt ordinary Russian citizens, they will. Sanctions encourage extremist voices within the country and government, leading to the adoption of measures that will affect any person at every level of society. This includes everyone leaving within the Russian Federation, those holding Russian passports and those with citizenship from a multitude of countries. There are many Americans living in Russia, who have chosen to start and live their lives in this country. They have made investments here and any act by the U.S. government that hurts Russia will in turn hurt them. Anger will be directed away from the Russian government and towards the instigators of the sanctions: the United States of America. When Washington D.C. is thousands of miles away, the immediate representatives of the U.S. of A become those holding blue passports. Like in every country, Russia has its own share of people who call themselves "patriots" and do not wish to see other nationalities and citizens of other states living their lives at peace within the country. These groups are looking for a reason to fight against the "outsiders". U.S. actions can very well become just that excuse. The "Iron Curtain" and "hatred" of America and the "West" that many believe already exists in Russia will come to fruition by our own hands. The U.S. will create its own demons, a circumstance that has haunted us in the past.

While we may see ourselves as acting on the side of democracy and what is right, we may be in fact headed in a completely different direction.

The U.S. Today

Keystone Protests. Photo credit: Reuters.

As the only American many of my students know, I am their one source of learning about the United States outside of films and other sources of popular media. Reiterating the discussion above, popular media does not always portray Russia in the positive, thus giving my students the impression that the U.S. dislikes Russia. I feel responsible for such opinions and must combat these assumptions. Yet current U.S. policy does not help me in this cause. Furthermore, when my students talk to me about the United States, they do so with idealism and dreaming, imagining a place where a person's dreams can come true and freedom is abound. That is the America I grew up learning about and to this day I am told that I am a citizen of a great nation where all these ideals are alive. Reality has shown me that such statements are not as black and white as they are made out to be. I was taught that the United States was a country for example where everyone enjoys the right to assembly and speech; however, as I sat and watched news about the Occupy Wall Street movement from my St. Petersburg apartment, I wept at what I saw.

Occupy. Photo Credit: Daily Mail

Protesters who had gathered to voice their concerns and opinions against the direction in which American society is headed were dispersed violently by police officers across the country. Many of these groups organized camps, literally occupying the areas they found for protest. Similar actions were taken by those occupying Maidan Square in Kiev. Yet, the reaction of the U.S. government and local law enforcement agencies towards the Occupy Protests by American citizens sharply differs from the support given to the Maidan protesters as well as to the government erected by those involved. Moreoever, federal laws passed after the breakup of the Occupy movement limit any American's right to protest any number of issues with which they find disagreeance (you may read more here and here). One can now search  on Google with the terms 'How to Protest Legally" and find advice and rules. I grew up learning that the only rule I needed for protesting was the 1st Amendment. And yet when students gathered at the White House to peacefully protest the Keystone XL pipeline earlier this year, I once again wept for my country as those students were carried away in handcuffs.

Bolotnaya Ploshad'. May 6th, 2013.
 Photo Credit: 1tvnet.ru

When I look at such events in the U.S. and compare them with similar circumstances in Russia, it is difficult to determine where this "Iron Curtain" has actually come down. Protesting legally is very difficult in the Russian Federation and people face arrest each time they leave their homes to stand up for their ideals. This does not however stop those same people from protesting on a regular basis. Citizens from all walks of life grab flags and banners and make their voices heard, in all types of weather. I was continually inspired by my host-father in St. Petersburg, who despite being well into his 70s went out to march in protest after protest throughout my stay in the city. Do Americans feel this same courage in the face of our own laws? Images flash on American TV stations and in newspapers of uniformed police officers tackling protesters on Red Square and throughout the country, and we condemn such brutality as our government responds with criticism towards the Kremlin, while police brutality and the unconstitutional arrests of protesters within our own borders draws not a word from the White House. This double standard is alive and well today in regard to Crimea. The United States accuses Putin of illegally invading a foreign country and thus calling for sanctions to be placed upon Russia. When the United States sent troops into Afghanistan, Iraq, and Libya, while disagreeing with these actions, the Russian Federation did not issue sanctions against the U.S. When President Obama was on the verge of sending American forces into Syria, it was not Switzerland or Sweden who talked him down, but President Putin. Nor does the Russian Federation seek to convince the United State's neighbors to join into any sort of military alliance.

The double standard by which the United State's acts throughout the world is damaging to the future. How can we pretend to defend ideals in other countries that we ourselves do not stand for at home? This signals a moral crisis within our own country. But, that is a topic for another discussion. Right now, we can do the unexpected. Perhaps President Putin wants the U.S. to act the way it is and maybe Putin does want to conquer the world. Then it could be possible, that this time around, instead of meeting Russia head-on in an arms race, we meet them in a full embrace. Because the truth is, that at the end of the day there is no such thing as "East" and "West". By going east from Kyzyl, I can reach the territory of the United States just as I can by going west. The divides are human made, which means they can be undone.

Coming out of my "cave"

There is nothing like -45 degree temperatures (in both celsius AND fahrenheit) to turn a person into a hermit. The very thought of sticking any sort of appendage outside for even a second send shivers down your spine. Blankets are your outer wear and tea takes the place of your mittens as you huddle inside, taking comfort, like a bear in its cave, of the small room you have. Yet, there is still work and food that draws you out of the room. Unlike a bear during hibernation, you are not able to gather food to last the winter. Your refrigerator is simply not big enough. Also unlike a bear during hibernation, you have bills to pay, people to see, and a paycheck to earn. And thus begins the process of donning four layers of clothes, for every part of the body (ok, maybe a bit of an exageration, but not really that big of one!). There is the need to add 10 minutes to the amount of time it takes to get out the door. This cycle repeated itself for me, day after day, for one month. It is a hopeless predicament to find oneself in - cold, ice, snow (white, black, brown), and gray skies...The mood is depressed and energy is gone. Then, a change occurs.

It happened so subtly one day. Yet despite the subtleness of it all, the change in weather sent ripples through the earth. It was so blissful. It came unexpectedly and quietly - the sun lit up the sky and the earth below it, the birds came out and sang their songs, and I could feel his face. There is nothing like a long, cold winter to erase from your mind the feeling of warmth and sunlight. As I walked to work, it seemed every molecule in my body was waking up and starting to dance. My mood improved instantly, a smile appeared on my lips, the walk to the university seemed shorter all of a sudden, and the world around me sprung into excitement. Although I escaped the deep winter cold of Tuva by going to St. Petersburg, February nonetheless was cold and dark enough to set me into the "hibernation" I described above. All desire to be outside froze in the chill and I receded the boundaries of my domain to the walls of my apartment, stretching them to include the university only on work days. My accomplishments were movie marathons and sleeping. What else was there to do? Well now, that is all over.

Spring has come to Tuva and with it, the energy of the sun itself!

It is visible not only in the extended length of days or the blue skies, but also on the faces of people walking by. Everyone seems a bit happier (but just a bit) with an extra bounce added to each step. As I mentioned in my last post, the deep, cold winters of northern countries help me appreciate the warmer months of the year. Now, my apprectional is at maximum, and it is only March!

I confess, that as I returned in February to Kyzyl, I felt very little desire to explore more in Tuva. Even the mountains, visible from my window by day and by night, lost their hold on me. Any thought of exploring outside or hiking was instantly swept away by the cold winds. Yet, it seems that those thoughts were not swept away forever; having come back on the rays of the sun. Now, I gaze upon the mountains and feel once again that desire to set foot upon them and wander around without a map, following my feelings and the direction of the wind. This thirst and hunger for adventure grows each day, fed my dreams of what lies beyond the mountains. I recently opened up a book that was given to me by my students in December. It's entitled "The Treasures of Tuva" and on the inside cover is a map of Tuva. I never bought a map of the republic when I arrived here in the fall, so I had not especially looked at one, relying mostly on how people described the layout of the republic to be. The map ignited in me a desire to touch every part of Tuva. Maps are magical in that way. They allow us to see places that are physically far away from us, but so easily "travelled" to with our eyes. We can plan a route as quickly as making dinner. That is what I did as I looked upon this map. Earlier, I had thought that I would want to visit Mongolia. While I still would like to see that country, I realized how much of Tuva is left to discover! All of it! Also, there is the issue of the border crossings, which allow only citizens of the Russian Federation and Mongolia to transit over the border. This is the case only on the Tuvan border. Of course. But, that then leaves me the only option of travelling in Tuva;
which is more than enough!

Reflections on Winter

One of the most common associations with Russia is “winter”: cold, ferocious, and everlasting. Many are not aware that Russia, like many places on the planet, also enjoys all four seasons of the year. Some places indeed are only allowed a short spring and summer before the snows fall, but that is by no means the rule for the whole country. Summers in St. Petersburg for example are wonderful, light-filled periods full of romance and adventure. In Tyva, locals seek entertainment and recreation in the wilds of nature, forsaking the urban jungle. It irritates me a bit when I’m asked only about how cold it gets in Russia as the focus on the winter betrays the beauty of the rest of the seasons. Yet as I write about my perturbedness, I cannot focus on the summer quite yet. Outside the window of the café where I currently sit, winter hangs over the city of St. Petersburg. Smoke rises from chimneys and hangs in the air, frozen by the cold. The sun shines as if it is five o’clock in the evening when it is in fact only two in the afternoon. People bundle themselves in large coats with real or fake fur and rush to and fro, aiming to stay outside only as long as necessary. This is however the first day of winter that I have experienced in St. Petersburg since arriving on the 27^th of December. Due to the changing climate of our planet, winter arrived late here, bringing with it cold temperatures and snow.

I arrived on a temperate, rainy day more akin to the weather of April than to that of December. It felt as if I had stepped off the plane into a tropical zone as I had just left -30 degree temperatures in Tyva. While feeling sad about the lack of snow for New Year's, I must confess that it was a welcome relief to walk around without gloves and to be able to see, as a scarf was not covering most of my face. While winter here involves many discomforts (clothing being on the top of my list as there is no way to undress quickly when you are wearing three to five layers...), there is a certain exhilaration I get from experiencing winter in the Russian Federation. Northern countries and territories make winter "more real" than in other parts of the globe where winter occurs. Here especially, the feeling of cold wind on the skin, white snow crunching under your feet, and the sight of frozen rivers and lakes both chills and invigorates. Inhabitants of the Russian Federation know and understand winter better than other places I have been. When it's cold, proper clothing is required and expected. Yet cold temperatures do not keep the locals inside, cowering under blankets. On the contrary, they run off to enjoy traditional winter activities like skiing and sledding, walking outside, going to New Year's and Christmas markets and other festivals. Blanket cowering is allowed though and also enjoyed by a majority of the population.

Grey, black, white...

Another sign of winter in these parts is the increased amount of darkness. The days grow shorter in many areas of the globe around winter, but in northern countries, the change is felt more strongly. In St. Petersburg for example, the sun will rise only after eleven o'clock in the morning and set already by five o'clock in the evening. Waking up early is especially difficult under these conditions. Kyzyl, being a smaller city with fewer street lamps is especially dark in the winter time. When I return home from class at six-thirty in the evening, the sun has already set, adding even more so to the day's weariness. I trudge home not necessarily through the snow, but most assuredly through the cold. I rush inside of my apartment building and run up the stars in an effort to get heat through my body. My apartment greets me with warmth and light. Then the effort commences of changing into lighter clothing. On a teaching day, I could be wearing two or three layers on my legs, two pairs of socks with boots, three or four layers on my upper body with a coat, a hat, scarf, and gloves. My boots are warm, but heavy. I know that awaiting me tomorrow is all of this over again and it will repeat until spring arrives. In spite of this, I cannot help but feel the authenticity of the winter. This is not a place where it snows one day and in a week the snow disappears. The cold temperatures are not a "cold front" either but the time of year. It also allows for a greater appreciation for the warmer months. Summer here seems so much brighter and exciting than in other places because of the winter. When five or more layers are required for three or more months, then warm weather is something to rejoice in and not take for granted. The brightness of the surroundings is something that is sorely missed in the darker months. And thus I shall part with an interesting bit of trivia about Siberia.

Back in January of 2012, I travelled across Siberia on the Trans-Siberian railroad, making stops along the way to see the cities of the eastern side of the country. During my travels I noticed that some buildings and houses were painted in bright colors such as blue and pink. I asked one of my hosts why this was so and they explained that it was due to the nature of the winters in the region. First off, the days are shorter, but even when it is "daytime", the sky may still be a sad gray. Secondly, the snow stays around for months at a time. Thus, the only colors one could see during the winter are variations of black, gray, and white. To help prevent color blindness or at least to provide people, especially children, with some sense of life during these months, they paint buildings with bright colors. I find this fact interesting but never really understood how necessary it is until this year in Kyzyl.

On my way to and from the university is an apartment building that is painted pink. In the fall I found it to be a bit outrageous, but now I no longer laugh. Everyday my eyes feast upon the brightness of that building's color, enjoying if only for a few moments that which is lacking in the environment around us.