Arzhaan 2

The next morning saw a repeat of the week's morning routine: wake-up, eat breakfast, brush teeth, and walk to school. Classes were to be had all day, and since the groups with me were new, I was able to show off my pictures and souvenirs as I had the past couple of days. Yet the real excitement began in the evening. I had learned during the trip up the mountain that the 10th graders enjoy volleyball. They invited me to play and we picked Thursday evening at 4:00 PM as game time. I arrived without sporting clothes (having conveniently left them in America) and settled in to test my volleyball skills, which had not been used for a very long time. Turns out that such skills never die and I play the game just as I did in high school, in other words, terribly. We started off simply playing a game of hitting the ball back and forth between two opposing sides. Now, while most may find entertainment in the skill demonstrated in keeping the ball from hitting the floor and in how individuals can delicately bounce the ball back and forth, I on the other hand find enjoyment in seeing how high I can hit the ball. I can proudly say that I reached the ceiling probably around five times. The others were much better athletes and I am sure that I annoyed them to a small degree with my strategy, but we all had a good laugh. Then we formed up into teams to play an actual match. Once again I demonstrated my complete lack of skill and after ten minutes of gametime, I decided to take the bench and observe. My decision was rewarded as the school children are just brilliant athletes. Eventually, even two of their teachers joined in, their gym instructor and volleyball coach. It was all good fun, but as the evening wore on, I decided to return home to rest and prepare for the next day.

In the evening, more food was to be had, especially dessert. Robert, in addition to being a dancer, is also a wonderful cook. Very quickly, he whipped up a wonderful treat with cottage cheese and a crumbling crust. It was delicious and large portions were consumed under the influence of conversation and tea. As the clock struck midnight, it was once again time to head to bed. I stepped outside to visit the restroom and admired the night sky. As I had noticed during my visit to another village in December, the stars out here are amazing and seem as if they can be picked right out of the sky! I stopped and just stared up. Joining the stars in the solitude was the village's television tower. I had noticed it when I first arrived and during my first night, I was startled by its large, red lights that seemed to keep watch over Arzhaan like all-seeing eyes. I shuffled back inside and settled into bed.

Friday was spent in expectation of the evening's activities. We had announced a talent show for the students of the school which was to be held on Friday evening. Classes flew by as usual and were full of laughter as well as silence at some points. The time for the talent show was scheduled for 6:00 PM, but according to the theory of Tuvan time, it started much later than that. The evening was a moment of Tuvan time in practice. By Friday, I was already well adjusted to the concept and well prepared. I simply took my place at the judges table and waited patiently while everyone took their places and the necessary equipment was made ready.

Once we began, the performances were quite spectacular. Overall, there were six acts: three with dancing and three reciting poetry. One of the kids got up on stage and started breakdancing amazingly. To be honest, I am very bad at judging and picking someone who is "the best". But, it had to be done, so first, second, and third places were assigned, with three additional prizes for best poetry, strong effort, and good teamwork also handed out. When the show wrapped up, a dance party was thrown together and we all gathered in a circle to groove it. I did my best to light up the dance floor, but I am not sure how well it worked. We also played the limbo game to music and the breakdancer from the talent show pulled off his moves once more. I was told that dinner was waiting for me, so I headed to the cafeteria to eat, this time alone. Awaiting me was soup and (take a guess!) meat. I ate heartily and decided to return to see what unfolded at the school after I had left. It seemed the action had moved outside to the soccer field. Once again I was invited to take part (they apparently had not caught on to the fact that I am a horrible athlete). I ran back and forth and charged at the opposing team, feigning I had any idea what I was doing. As during volleyball, I eventually decided to stand on the side lines and observe the action. It was during this time that I began to put various pieces of the puzzle of life in Arzhaan together.

Life in a small village or town is difficult and such communities struggle around the world with problems such as unemployment, alcohol and drug abuse, and how to keep their youth from falling into these deadly cycles. The community of Arzhaan is taking positive steps to tackle these issues, and their strategy boils down to love and attention. The principal of the school for example will physically call upon parents of students who are not performing well in class. If a student is perhaps sleeping during class often, the teachers will inform the principal and she will go knocking on the parents' door asking them why their child is sleeping in class. Furthermore, they have turned the school into something more than just a place for study. It has become the local community center. The kids gather there almost every evening to play and hang out. Not only are the grounds open but also the building. itself. The kids themselves are just wonderful in so many ways. It happens often in such situations that different age groups will divide up and 10th graders will not associate with 4th graders for example. On the soccer field though, everyone was involved and the older grades made sure that the younger graders got their chance to play. It was adorable and inspiring to watch. I stayed at the school until everyone started to head their separate ways: it was time for dinner, or second dinner in my case.

I was greeted at home by more food and a cake! (Time for a side note: cakes in the Russian Federation are just excellent) It was my last night in Arzhaan and therefore the evening was guided by a somber tone. We all chatted as before around the dining room table and the clock struck midnight.

I woke up Saturday morning and packed a bit before heading off to my last day at the school. I taught my final classes in Arzhaan and said my goodbyes. I expected my farewell to be a quiet one, but was greeted by a surprise after lunch.
There were supposed to be a couple more classes to teach after eating, but I was directed to the activity hall where I was greeted by all the classes I had taught the past week (basically the whole school) and seated in front before the stage. Robert's dancers came out and performed a couple of acts and a couple of individual students sang and one even demonstrated her karate skills. Then representatives from each of the classes got up and thanked me for my time with them and presented me with gifts. The 4th grade in particular presented me with gifts that they had made in school. I was overwhelmed with gratitude and was left speechless. I bid farewell to all and returned to the principal's house for tea and a final chat and to pack up my remaining belongings.

I can say that it was difficult to leave Arzhaan. It was a chance to relax and teach in a less stressful environment as well as offering me the opportunity to contemplate my time in Tuva. The peace and quiet soon gave way to the sounds of the city and bustle of me as we came into Kyzyl. I came up the stairs of my building and opened the door to my apartment. Setting down my things, I knew I was back. No cows roamed the streets and I had to cook for myself.

My wonderful hosts in Arzhaan!