Sitting. I do love sitting - especially outside in lovely weather. I mean, who doesn't love that? But what is sitting? It is of course, one position in which a being may choose to position its body, usually for rest. Taking a less literal look at it, sitting is in fact a means of saying "stop". Sitting ceases our forward motion as we are at rest and with our physical movement stopped, we are left to focus our energy and attention on other matters - whether that be conversing with someone or ourselves, reading, or merely "being" and watching the world around us. Yesterday, I chose the latter of these options. Sitting on the edge of a flower bed, I beheld in front of me the central square of Kyzyl. The clack of steps on the bricks punctuated the mid
afternoon air, but these were not the steps of soldiers, but of a women rushing to a fro in heels and boots. I was not the only person who decided to sit here that day. Lining the boundaries of the square were benches with people sitting there alone or with company, discussing the days events or making plans for another time, or simply enjoying the air or remembering times past. On the steps of the national theater to my left was a group of students, laughing jovially. Their contemporaries were to be seen all over the square - forsaking benches for the edges of the fountain pool, which was now shut off for the season. All generations were gathered here, from the very young who sat in strollers or waddled on their own around their parents to those who remembered a Kyzyl and world much different from the one they now see. It is a gathering place for all.
In the middle of this place is a small, brightly colored pagoda, inside of which is a prayer wheel. The prayer wheel comes from the Buddhist tradition. From my very quick research, I now know that spinning the prayer wheel is paramount to reciting a mantra or prayer out loud. On the prayer wheel itself is written a mantra in Tibetan. Here in Kyzyl, it isn't just a pretty thing erected in the middle of the city - people use it. Many alter their route across the square to make a few rotations around the prayer wheel before continuing on their way. It is quite beautiful. They are stopping their lives for a few seconds to say that there is something more to this life than just rushing around on our two feet. The prayer wheel attracts the eye and draws attention away from everything else on the square or surrounding the square. Across from me on the opposite side of the prayer wheel stands the
government of the Republic of Tuva. Nearby is the parliament building. Such power and yet all attention is drawn to the prayer wheel. Admittedly with difficulty, I draw my attention away from the center of the square and glance to its periphery.
Off and to the side is Tuvan State University, where I teach. It is painted in a bright beige, making it stand out amongst the Soviet grey of the government buildings. Students and professors are going to and from the main building. While glancing in the direction of the university, my attention is drawn to another figure overlooking the square. It is of course Lenin. Staring at this figure for a bit longer, I cannot help but compare him to Dr. T.J. Eckleburg in Fitzgerald's "The Great Gatsby." Both figures hold their gaze over their domain, seeing everything. Like the good doctor, Lenin is forgotten in many respects. Lenin hasn't by any means fallen into complete oblivion, but it has been
twenty-two years since the country he founded ceased to exist. My generation and those that follow us no longer read his books or memorize his quotes in school. His picture no longer hangs in every government and educational building. Mayakovsky's immortal words, "Lenin lived, Lenin lives, Lenin will live!" seem to have lost their emotion as Lenin is dead to the imagination of people here. And yet he still stands tall, keeping watch over Kyzyl.
A cool breeze brings me back to the present. The sun is shining still, but clouds are coming in, stealing away the day's warmth. Fall here is spectacular - gold and bright! I could sit here all day, but there is still much to do. I glance towards the post office, my next stop of the day.
Farewell to you dear square. We shall soon enjoy each other's company once again.
Yours,
Joey
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