Walking along the main thoroughfare of Kyzyl (Ul.
Kochetova), one immediately notices a steady stream of pedestrians and
automobiles moving steadily down a particular side street. I stop and stare and
find myself also drawn down that street, as if there is a mass of gravity,
pulling anyone towards its center. What is this mysterious physical anomaly? It
is in fact nothing that strange at all, it is the city market. But you are not
aware of this fact quite yet.
Continuing down the street with the other pedestrians,
you notice that it is a one-way road, whether on purpose or just because, no one
knows. You start seeing hints of a market – people have set up tables along the
sidewalk selling clothes and accessories. There are piles of second hand
clothing, neat rows of socks, and boxes of gloves. You glance at a distance,
knowing that if you step too close, your curiosity could be mistaken for a desire
to purchase something laid out on the table. Then comes a sign to your left:
“City Markets”, this is the beginning of endless rows of tents and stalls.”
Like a department store, the market is divided into different sections – food,
clothing, hardware, goods for the house, etc. You glance past the sign and see
only a tunnel, bordered on both sides by pantyhose dangling from clothesline,
hats on racks, and suits and coats on hangers. You rush forward, not allowing
yourself to be sucked into the tunnel.
The crowd thickens and the noise increases as cars, trucks,
and people all attempt to cross the street. Your nose detects the scent of
gasoline and local and foreign delicacies being made in small shacks and
stalls. Food is the reason you’ve come today, but not this kind of food. Your
goal is to the right a bit – the produce stands. Farmers and sellers stand
behind and in front of stands full of an array of bright colors. Watermelons,
peppers, carrots, potatoes, tomatoes, onions, beets, oranges, apples, mandarin
oranges, and much more are available for purchase. But you aren’t fooled into
thinking that each stand’s produce is identical. At a distance, you walk past
each stand, noticing the price and the look of each item in turn. Back and
forth you go, comparing prices and making note of the sellers from which you
will buy.
The next items on your shopping list are meat and milk
products. This requires you to step inside the large, metal structure behind
the produce stands. Here you are greeted by the sights and smells of birds and
beasts that are brought to the slaughter. Before your very eyes, chunks of meat
are cut into pieces ready for sale. Beef, pork, and mutton are all available.
In many respects, the meat here is used more efficiently. Russian and Tuvan
cuisine still call for livers, hearts, fat, and various other parts of animals which
we no longer use. The selection is quite large – there are ribs, wings, hind
quarters, breasts, intestines, fat, livers, hearts, kidneys, bones. This is the
meat department. Ringing it all are the dairy produce stands. Here you find
cheeses, milk, yogurt, and the thick, Tuvan sour cream. People are rushing to
and fro through narrow aisles. It is overwhelming at first, but you get your
bearings. You are sliding past the customers, eyeing prices of meats side by
side and comparing them in your head. Sucked into the middle of it all, you do
not notice the hustle and bustle around you. That is when you stop and step
back and admire it all. Hundreds of people are in here, making connections and
building relationships with the people behind the counters. You aren't necessarily
going to the stand with the cheapest goods, but to the person you trust and
know who is selling you the goods. After you buy each piece of meat or some
sour cream or a salad, the person says “Come again!” This isn't just a formality
but a sincere request. It is an invitation.
With you bags full of everything you had on your list (plus
a little extra), you set off back home. The crowds thin out as you fight
against the pull towards the market. Soon, you are back on the main street and
back in a different world.
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