Russia, Ukraine, Joey, and the United States

Seeing two people you dearly love fight each other is painful. The feelings aroused are ones of anger and confusion, as you do not know how to react. In any other situation, you would rush to the aid of your loved one, but in this case, who are you to help? You want to continue loving them both and for them to heal the rift between themselves. The current contention between the United States of America and the Russian Federation is for me such a fight, provoking conflicted feelings inside of me. I love neither one of them more or less than the other. I was born and raised in the U.S. I spent my formative years there figuring out who I am and what I believe with plenty of stumbling along the way. It was then in Russia where I found a place for the person I had become. The life I found in Russia suited the Joey that had formed in the U.S. I owe friends and family in both countries for the person I am today and the successes under my belt. It is difficult to read the news, see the lists of sanctions adopted by the United States and Europe, knowing that these actions are not directed at some faraway place, but rather at the country which I currently call home and at people who are my friends and family. The most recent events in the Crimea are sadly only one example of when I have found myself in the awkward position of standing in-between my two beloved countries. The Sochi Olympics of this year were another such episode, though to a much less pronounced degree. Yet despite my feelings towards both countries, of late it has become problematic to understand the point-of-view of the United States, much less to support it.

"What is Russia?"
This question defines my early searching in regard to the biggest country on the map. As I grew up in the 1990s, the answer was commonly mixed with old Cold War rhetoric about communism being the antithesis to democracy, that Russia was a bad place, etc. Films of the day spoke of stolen Soviet nuclear weapons and a corrupted country full of bad people looking to do harm to the United States. It was towards the end of the first decade of the 2000s that I began my own Russia story and delved into the richness of this country head first. At the end of 2011, I celebrated New Years in Russia, twenty years after the end of the Soviet Union. Yet the rhetoric changed very little outside of Russia regarding the country. Many films released during this time gave the "bad guy roles" to Russian and Eastern European personages. Video games, such as the popular Modern Warfare series, pitted the United States and the "free world" against Russia and
Russian-speaking evildoers. It would be erroneous to say that such feelings about the United States do not exist in Russia, but they do not manifest themselves in the media as such as in the U.S. Countless jokes and internet memes were made about Russia during this time as well, out of humor of course, but this humor has its source in the ideas supported by the general consensus about Russia. In January of 2014, the international media descended upon Russia for the Sochi Olympics. They found conditions to be less than desirable for their tastes, and responded by posting pictures of their hotel rooms as well as other areas of the Olympic Village on their social media accounts, jokingly and sarcastically belaying their complaints. Reviewing several of these photos, their tone conveys the sense that because of the Olympics location, it should come of no surprise that these problems exist.

These views of Russia are unfortunately not restrained to the media, but manifest themselves also on the global arena. U.S. foreign and military policy following the events of 1991 throughout the former Soviet Union hint at unresolved issues as concern Russia. The continued existence of NATO in addition to its expansion over the past twenty years brings into question the motives behind these actions. NATO was formed following World War II to defend the areas of the North Atlantic. Deducing against whom these areas were to be defended of course did not take that long, as the lines of the Cold War had already been drawn. Later, a similar organization among the Eastern European states headed by the Soviet Union was established, the Warsaw Pact. The purpose of NATO's founding is no secret. Yet how does an organization that was founded for the sole purpose of defending Europe from Soviet aggression still justify its existence today? From the Russian perspective, this is in fact an important question. It is especially relevant in light of recent NATO expansions that include former Warsaw Pact countries. While the motivations behind these countries desires to join the alliance are more than likely manifold, their acceptance into NATO can be interpreted as further steps to alienate Russia as well as to demonstrate Russia's loss of control over these areas. It adds insult to injury in the Russian view.

Inclusion of these states into NATO can be interpreted as a continuation of the policy of "containment", which defined immediate post-World War II U.S. policy towards the Soviet Union's attempts to promote communist governments throughout the world. American bases popped up in Europe and Asia, forming a ring around the Soviet Union. Missiles with ranging destructive yields were based in NATO countries, yet the end of the Cold War did not see the closure of these bases. What is more, there were plans to add missile defense mechanisms onto NATO territory. These plans included placing missiles in Poland for example. While the plans were cancelled, their effect on Russia is not to be downsized, nor are other initiatives that seek to place foreign troops and military hardware (specifically U.S. troops and hardware) on the soil of former Soviet republics. This is akin to the Soviet Union's move of building missile bases in Cuba. That move was greeted with much fear and apprehension in the United States. The U.S. government would not accept having missiles placed so close to U.S. soil, and the government's response matched its resolve, resulting in the removal of Soviet troops and missiles from the Caribbean. Having NATO troops close to its borders gives Russia the same apprehension, remembering that NATO was founded as an anti-Soviet military alliance. The encirclement of Russia continues, and this time it is drawing closer.

The conclusion to be drawn from these developments is that the United States and the "West" continue to view Russia as a threat. And that is where our thinking becomes very skewed.

The Iron Curtain
The distinction that defined the Cold War was that between "East and West." Such a simple border to draw: on one side freedom and democracy, while the other side was ruled with iron fists while people lived in constant misery. And yet Vienna sits further east than Prague and Eastern Germany, and the Baltic States share a linguistic history far different from the slavic republics and "Eastern Bloc" countries, but we had no problem sticking them into a box and slapping a label on them in order to satisfy our need to draw the line between "us" and "them." Yet it is interesting to ponder the names associated with this border, of which the "Iron Curtain" is perhaps the most well known. The phrase was used with such fervor in an effort to demonstrate just how horrible life was beyond "the wall." It is important of course to not make light of the difficulties that existed for those living in the Soviet Union and allied states, nor to pretend that the freedom of speech and assembly were protected and encouraged. These are features of history and must be understood; however, they are not the only aspects of life in the "East." The "Iron Curtain" was drawn just as much by the rest of the world as by the Soviets. By creating this idea of the Soviet Union as a despotic black hole, we let ourselves be blinded by only the bad. We created an "Iron Curtain" that cut ourselves off from seeing what the Soviet Union had to offer, from understanding the people of the "East" in an effort to bring everyone together.

Soviet history is of course awash with moments of extreme repression, the years of Stalin's rule being the most infamous example. Yet the "thaw" that occurred in US-Soviet relations also had its effect within the USSR. Pictures of life in the Soviet Union do not show scenes akin to Orwell's 1984. The memories held by those who remember Soviet days can be described as happy. People were born; they lived, loved, and died in this country, working and fighting for values that anyone around the world can appreciate. Freedoms were repressed, and the effects of this are still felt today, but the Russian Federation is not the Soviet Union. With the situation in Ukraine and the Crimea, there is all of a sudden talk of the Iron Curtain coming down once again. From within Russia however, very little has changed, especially in Kyzyl. Foreigners are not targeted, rather they are welcomed with open arms. An American film crew recently visited Tuva and spent a week taking pictures and filming the countryside and city without any problems from the authorities, receiving gifts from those they visited. English classes continue, and the American teacher in the city remains unharassed, as do the other foreign students. The unification of Crimea and Russia was greeted with a festival on the main square and then everyone went back to their own lives, because bills must be paid, dinner made, and life continued.

Sanctions and Creating Demons

Kyzyl's rally in support of unification.

Life is continuing, three weeks after Crimea joined the Russian Federation. The event itself was hailed as a long-time coming. Crimea is considered "Russian land" by many, and Ukraine furthermore is not considered an alien state, separate from Russia. As has been echoed by journalists, Ukrainians and Russians share so much more than a border. The histories and cultures of these two places are linked. Families extend across borders, as do friendships. While it is so easy to think of state boundaries as finite measures of where one language, culture, and society ends and another begins, the reality is not so simple. Recalling the ideas of the Iron Curtain, we think we can distinguish two people based solely on what passports they hold, while these two people may see each other as brothers or sisters. This analogy does not coincide with the feelings of all Russians and Ukrainians of course, yet those who live in Crimea do feel this way. With allegations of election fraud always surrounding the political process in the Russian Federation, it is easy to assume that the referendum in Crimea was also corrupted in order to produce a result favorable to the Russian government. Many refuse to recognize the referendum results as legitimate, but it still remains that people voted, voiced their opinion and that now Crimea is a part of the Russian Federation. That is a fact that must be accepted, because support for this event can be found throughout the country. It has been called a reversal of Khrushev's "mistake", who ceded Crimea over to the Ukrainian republic, with no referendum for the people of the peninsula to make their opinions heard. Mikhail Gorbachev supports the unification of Crimea and Russia, calling it the "correction of mistakes made" (Short article on his opinion in Russian). Crimea is simply returning to Russia, where it was before. Therefore the referendum and subsequent unification of Crimea with the Russian Federation are seen in quite the opposite light here than in other places because this time the population of the peninsula was given the chance to make their voices heard. Instead of rewarding the democratic process, many countries see fit to punish self-determination. Sanctions though will not resolve this issue and will instead lead to greater consequences in the future.

Already, voices within Russia, specifically within the government, are calling for more extreme measures to match the sanctions initiated by the United States and the European Union. There is talk of creating a uniquely Russian payment system separate from Visa and Mastercard, along with movements to censor those who oppose the government's actions in regard to Ukraine (several instances of which have already occurred), as well as cries for the boycotting and future ousting of MacDonald's and other American food companies from the territory of the Russian Federation. While the degree of seriousness and feasibility of some of this propositions can come into question, credibility is given to such voices when sanctions are leveled against Russia.In anger and desperation, people will turn to whomever offers them a clear-cut response and a means of maitining their dignity. While the sanctions in the meanwhile may be designed not to hurt ordinary Russian citizens, they will. Sanctions encourage extremist voices within the country and government, leading to the adoption of measures that will affect any person at every level of society. This includes everyone leaving within the Russian Federation, those holding Russian passports and those with citizenship from a multitude of countries. There are many Americans living in Russia, who have chosen to start and live their lives in this country. They have made investments here and any act by the U.S. government that hurts Russia will in turn hurt them. Anger will be directed away from the Russian government and towards the instigators of the sanctions: the United States of America. When Washington D.C. is thousands of miles away, the immediate representatives of the U.S. of A become those holding blue passports. Like in every country, Russia has its own share of people who call themselves "patriots" and do not wish to see other nationalities and citizens of other states living their lives at peace within the country. These groups are looking for a reason to fight against the "outsiders". U.S. actions can very well become just that excuse. The "Iron Curtain" and "hatred" of America and the "West" that many believe already exists in Russia will come to fruition by our own hands. The U.S. will create its own demons, a circumstance that has haunted us in the past.

While we may see ourselves as acting on the side of democracy and what is right, we may be in fact headed in a completely different direction.

The U.S. Today

Keystone Protests. Photo credit: Reuters.

As the only American many of my students know, I am their one source of learning about the United States outside of films and other sources of popular media. Reiterating the discussion above, popular media does not always portray Russia in the positive, thus giving my students the impression that the U.S. dislikes Russia. I feel responsible for such opinions and must combat these assumptions. Yet current U.S. policy does not help me in this cause. Furthermore, when my students talk to me about the United States, they do so with idealism and dreaming, imagining a place where a person's dreams can come true and freedom is abound. That is the America I grew up learning about and to this day I am told that I am a citizen of a great nation where all these ideals are alive. Reality has shown me that such statements are not as black and white as they are made out to be. I was taught that the United States was a country for example where everyone enjoys the right to assembly and speech; however, as I sat and watched news about the Occupy Wall Street movement from my St. Petersburg apartment, I wept at what I saw.

Occupy. Photo Credit: Daily Mail

Protesters who had gathered to voice their concerns and opinions against the direction in which American society is headed were dispersed violently by police officers across the country. Many of these groups organized camps, literally occupying the areas they found for protest. Similar actions were taken by those occupying Maidan Square in Kiev. Yet, the reaction of the U.S. government and local law enforcement agencies towards the Occupy Protests by American citizens sharply differs from the support given to the Maidan protesters as well as to the government erected by those involved. Moreoever, federal laws passed after the breakup of the Occupy movement limit any American's right to protest any number of issues with which they find disagreeance (you may read more here and here). One can now search  on Google with the terms 'How to Protest Legally" and find advice and rules. I grew up learning that the only rule I needed for protesting was the 1st Amendment. And yet when students gathered at the White House to peacefully protest the Keystone XL pipeline earlier this year, I once again wept for my country as those students were carried away in handcuffs.

Bolotnaya Ploshad'. May 6th, 2013.
 Photo Credit: 1tvnet.ru

When I look at such events in the U.S. and compare them with similar circumstances in Russia, it is difficult to determine where this "Iron Curtain" has actually come down. Protesting legally is very difficult in the Russian Federation and people face arrest each time they leave their homes to stand up for their ideals. This does not however stop those same people from protesting on a regular basis. Citizens from all walks of life grab flags and banners and make their voices heard, in all types of weather. I was continually inspired by my host-father in St. Petersburg, who despite being well into his 70s went out to march in protest after protest throughout my stay in the city. Do Americans feel this same courage in the face of our own laws? Images flash on American TV stations and in newspapers of uniformed police officers tackling protesters on Red Square and throughout the country, and we condemn such brutality as our government responds with criticism towards the Kremlin, while police brutality and the unconstitutional arrests of protesters within our own borders draws not a word from the White House. This double standard is alive and well today in regard to Crimea. The United States accuses Putin of illegally invading a foreign country and thus calling for sanctions to be placed upon Russia. When the United States sent troops into Afghanistan, Iraq, and Libya, while disagreeing with these actions, the Russian Federation did not issue sanctions against the U.S. When President Obama was on the verge of sending American forces into Syria, it was not Switzerland or Sweden who talked him down, but President Putin. Nor does the Russian Federation seek to convince the United State's neighbors to join into any sort of military alliance.

The double standard by which the United State's acts throughout the world is damaging to the future. How can we pretend to defend ideals in other countries that we ourselves do not stand for at home? This signals a moral crisis within our own country. But, that is a topic for another discussion. Right now, we can do the unexpected. Perhaps President Putin wants the U.S. to act the way it is and maybe Putin does want to conquer the world. Then it could be possible, that this time around, instead of meeting Russia head-on in an arms race, we meet them in a full embrace. Because the truth is, that at the end of the day there is no such thing as "East" and "West". By going east from Kyzyl, I can reach the territory of the United States just as I can by going west. The divides are human made, which means they can be undone.

Coming out of my "cave"

There is nothing like -45 degree temperatures (in both celsius AND fahrenheit) to turn a person into a hermit. The very thought of sticking any sort of appendage outside for even a second send shivers down your spine. Blankets are your outer wear and tea takes the place of your mittens as you huddle inside, taking comfort, like a bear in its cave, of the small room you have. Yet, there is still work and food that draws you out of the room. Unlike a bear during hibernation, you are not able to gather food to last the winter. Your refrigerator is simply not big enough. Also unlike a bear during hibernation, you have bills to pay, people to see, and a paycheck to earn. And thus begins the process of donning four layers of clothes, for every part of the body (ok, maybe a bit of an exageration, but not really that big of one!). There is the need to add 10 minutes to the amount of time it takes to get out the door. This cycle repeated itself for me, day after day, for one month. It is a hopeless predicament to find oneself in - cold, ice, snow (white, black, brown), and gray skies...The mood is depressed and energy is gone. Then, a change occurs.

It happened so subtly one day. Yet despite the subtleness of it all, the change in weather sent ripples through the earth. It was so blissful. It came unexpectedly and quietly - the sun lit up the sky and the earth below it, the birds came out and sang their songs, and I could feel his face. There is nothing like a long, cold winter to erase from your mind the feeling of warmth and sunlight. As I walked to work, it seemed every molecule in my body was waking up and starting to dance. My mood improved instantly, a smile appeared on my lips, the walk to the university seemed shorter all of a sudden, and the world around me sprung into excitement. Although I escaped the deep winter cold of Tuva by going to St. Petersburg, February nonetheless was cold and dark enough to set me into the "hibernation" I described above. All desire to be outside froze in the chill and I receded the boundaries of my domain to the walls of my apartment, stretching them to include the university only on work days. My accomplishments were movie marathons and sleeping. What else was there to do? Well now, that is all over.

Spring has come to Tuva and with it, the energy of the sun itself!

It is visible not only in the extended length of days or the blue skies, but also on the faces of people walking by. Everyone seems a bit happier (but just a bit) with an extra bounce added to each step. As I mentioned in my last post, the deep, cold winters of northern countries help me appreciate the warmer months of the year. Now, my apprectional is at maximum, and it is only March!

I confess, that as I returned in February to Kyzyl, I felt very little desire to explore more in Tuva. Even the mountains, visible from my window by day and by night, lost their hold on me. Any thought of exploring outside or hiking was instantly swept away by the cold winds. Yet, it seems that those thoughts were not swept away forever; having come back on the rays of the sun. Now, I gaze upon the mountains and feel once again that desire to set foot upon them and wander around without a map, following my feelings and the direction of the wind. This thirst and hunger for adventure grows each day, fed my dreams of what lies beyond the mountains. I recently opened up a book that was given to me by my students in December. It's entitled "The Treasures of Tuva" and on the inside cover is a map of Tuva. I never bought a map of the republic when I arrived here in the fall, so I had not especially looked at one, relying mostly on how people described the layout of the republic to be. The map ignited in me a desire to touch every part of Tuva. Maps are magical in that way. They allow us to see places that are physically far away from us, but so easily "travelled" to with our eyes. We can plan a route as quickly as making dinner. That is what I did as I looked upon this map. Earlier, I had thought that I would want to visit Mongolia. While I still would like to see that country, I realized how much of Tuva is left to discover! All of it! Also, there is the issue of the border crossings, which allow only citizens of the Russian Federation and Mongolia to transit over the border. This is the case only on the Tuvan border. Of course. But, that then leaves me the only option of travelling in Tuva;
which is more than enough!

Reflections on Winter

One of the most common associations with Russia is “winter”: cold, ferocious, and everlasting. Many are not aware that Russia, like many places on the planet, also enjoys all four seasons of the year. Some places indeed are only allowed a short spring and summer before the snows fall, but that is by no means the rule for the whole country. Summers in St. Petersburg for example are wonderful, light-filled periods full of romance and adventure. In Tyva, locals seek entertainment and recreation in the wilds of nature, forsaking the urban jungle. It irritates me a bit when I’m asked only about how cold it gets in Russia as the focus on the winter betrays the beauty of the rest of the seasons. Yet as I write about my perturbedness, I cannot focus on the summer quite yet. Outside the window of the café where I currently sit, winter hangs over the city of St. Petersburg. Smoke rises from chimneys and hangs in the air, frozen by the cold. The sun shines as if it is five o’clock in the evening when it is in fact only two in the afternoon. People bundle themselves in large coats with real or fake fur and rush to and fro, aiming to stay outside only as long as necessary. This is however the first day of winter that I have experienced in St. Petersburg since arriving on the 27^th of December. Due to the changing climate of our planet, winter arrived late here, bringing with it cold temperatures and snow.

I arrived on a temperate, rainy day more akin to the weather of April than to that of December. It felt as if I had stepped off the plane into a tropical zone as I had just left -30 degree temperatures in Tyva. While feeling sad about the lack of snow for New Year's, I must confess that it was a welcome relief to walk around without gloves and to be able to see, as a scarf was not covering most of my face. While winter here involves many discomforts (clothing being on the top of my list as there is no way to undress quickly when you are wearing three to five layers...), there is a certain exhilaration I get from experiencing winter in the Russian Federation. Northern countries and territories make winter "more real" than in other parts of the globe where winter occurs. Here especially, the feeling of cold wind on the skin, white snow crunching under your feet, and the sight of frozen rivers and lakes both chills and invigorates. Inhabitants of the Russian Federation know and understand winter better than other places I have been. When it's cold, proper clothing is required and expected. Yet cold temperatures do not keep the locals inside, cowering under blankets. On the contrary, they run off to enjoy traditional winter activities like skiing and sledding, walking outside, going to New Year's and Christmas markets and other festivals. Blanket cowering is allowed though and also enjoyed by a majority of the population.

Grey, black, white...

Another sign of winter in these parts is the increased amount of darkness. The days grow shorter in many areas of the globe around winter, but in northern countries, the change is felt more strongly. In St. Petersburg for example, the sun will rise only after eleven o'clock in the morning and set already by five o'clock in the evening. Waking up early is especially difficult under these conditions. Kyzyl, being a smaller city with fewer street lamps is especially dark in the winter time. When I return home from class at six-thirty in the evening, the sun has already set, adding even more so to the day's weariness. I trudge home not necessarily through the snow, but most assuredly through the cold. I rush inside of my apartment building and run up the stars in an effort to get heat through my body. My apartment greets me with warmth and light. Then the effort commences of changing into lighter clothing. On a teaching day, I could be wearing two or three layers on my legs, two pairs of socks with boots, three or four layers on my upper body with a coat, a hat, scarf, and gloves. My boots are warm, but heavy. I know that awaiting me tomorrow is all of this over again and it will repeat until spring arrives. In spite of this, I cannot help but feel the authenticity of the winter. This is not a place where it snows one day and in a week the snow disappears. The cold temperatures are not a "cold front" either but the time of year. It also allows for a greater appreciation for the warmer months. Summer here seems so much brighter and exciting than in other places because of the winter. When five or more layers are required for three or more months, then warm weather is something to rejoice in and not take for granted. The brightness of the surroundings is something that is sorely missed in the darker months. And thus I shall part with an interesting bit of trivia about Siberia.

Back in January of 2012, I travelled across Siberia on the Trans-Siberian railroad, making stops along the way to see the cities of the eastern side of the country. During my travels I noticed that some buildings and houses were painted in bright colors such as blue and pink. I asked one of my hosts why this was so and they explained that it was due to the nature of the winters in the region. First off, the days are shorter, but even when it is "daytime", the sky may still be a sad gray. Secondly, the snow stays around for months at a time. Thus, the only colors one could see during the winter are variations of black, gray, and white. To help prevent color blindness or at least to provide people, especially children, with some sense of life during these months, they paint buildings with bright colors. I find this fact interesting but never really understood how necessary it is until this year in Kyzyl.

On my way to and from the university is an apartment building that is painted pink. In the fall I found it to be a bit outrageous, but now I no longer laugh. Everyday my eyes feast upon the brightness of that building's color, enjoying if only for a few moments that which is lacking in the environment around us.

An American walks into a village house...

And immediately sees the remains of a dead cow on the floor. This could of course be quite alarming, triggering scenes from horror or plague films. Luckily for me however, this was merely the result of the years-old tradition of preparing for the winter. Today, many forget that food once operated according to the seasons. Pumpkin pie is associated with the fall and not summer, winter, spring because in those months, there was not pumpkin to be had. Of course, food still grows according to the weather, but as we receive food from all over the world in our globalized world, the only change we notice is an increase in price of "non seasonal" foodstuffs. Storing food for winter is a practice I would poster that many of us are unfamiliar with in the 21st century. It is not however forgotten in all parts of the world, as I noticed this weekend.

Tuvan cuisine is based on one principle: meat and everything else that comes with it. With snow already on the ground, winter has come and made its make in Tyva for well over a month now. The temperatures have been keeping with the season with today's temperature being around -17 degrees Celsius (that's 0 degrees Fahrenheit for y'all in the states). Currently, it is hovering around -22 degrees Celsius (-7 degrees Fahrenheit). That is by no means the end of it. The weather promises to get much colder come January, even dropping down to -40 degrees Celsius (which coincidentally is -40 degrees Fahrenheit). Winter in Tyva is serious. Living in such a climate has produced the principle of meat in Tuvan cuisine. In terms of vegetables, there is little that grows here. Furthermore, the Tuvans are traditionally a nomadic people, thus farming was only recently introduced into the culture. To cope with the fierce winters, Tuvans drink a heart tea that is made with green tea, salt, and milk. It not only warms up your innards, but also fills you up as well. That is by no means, the end of the meal though. That would be leaving out the meat. I mented above that Tuvans eat meat and everything else that comes with it. That means EVERYTHING. The remains of the cow I saw in the house understand what I am getting at.

The setting is the small village of Telli (Тэлли) in the western district of "Bai-Taiga" (Бай-Тайга) in the Republic of Tyva. I was invited to this place by my colleague, the chair of the English Department. Both she and her husband are originally from this village. We gathered into a small car, four people (my colleague's sister-in-law also joined us) and set off into the night. It was a five-hour
journey that was unfortunately done in the dark, meaning I missed most of the scenery along the road. What I did not miss were the stars. When we stopped about halfway through the trip to use the restroom (which was an outhouse) and grab some tea and snack, I looked up and beheld a majestic sight. The stars shone so brightly and seemed so close, that I felt I could reach up and grab them. It was one of the clearest and most beautiful skies I had ever seen. It was an especially unique moment for me because I had not really seen the stars or looked at them for quite some time. In Kyzyl, we have smog in the winter, because everyone heats their houses with coal, thus leaving the sky not at all visible. Now, our windows are frozen over, bringing visibility down even further. The sky remained just as marvelous the rest of my stay outside of Kyzyl. We arrived in Telli around 1:00 AM. Greeting us was a cold, brisk night air,
an angry dog, the remains of the cow, and our gracious host, Tat'yana. We came into the house and were immediately sat down around the table in the small kitchen. Soup was dished out to all and two big plates with meat (still on the bones), liver and heart, and onions. I should mention that the soup contained meat as well as bone or something else that was not meat. In any case, it was all very delicious and filling.

Setting to work on the cow.

We then all settled in for the night. I slept wonderfully and awoke to the sight of my colleague's husband and his father cutting into a hunk of meat on the kitchen floor. They cut through, taking clumps off until they came to the bones, making sure nothing was left to be wasted on the bones. Moving from there, they systematically cut off all the meat and harvested the innards of the rest of the cow, moving out of the kitchen into the living room (where I had slept the night before) to work at the bigger parts. Breakfast was served in the morning with oatmeal, bread, jam, chocolate, and pizza making up the meal. Also served was the Tuvan tea I described earlier. Full and feeling quite warm from the tea, I decided to set out for a short walk around the neighborhood before I headed to a local school to chat with the students. The sight that my eyes beheld once I stepped outside was just as majestic as the stars that shone the night before above me. Mountains surround the village on all sides and are well within walking distance. This time I did not succeed in making it out to them, but on my next trip (which will happen in the spring), I plan on walking in those mountains. The village is small and everyone lives in one-story houses. The Russian Federation I am accustomed to is full of apartment buildings, of course, people here do live in houses, but I had personally never been in a place, where there were more houses than apartments.

The house we stayed in for the weekend.

Coming into Kyzyl was like entering a different world, coming to Telli felt like entering a world deeper within the one I already found myself. Within the actual village, there are altogether few roads and among those even fewer paved ones. That day I went out to walk, there was a scattering of people moving across the snow-covered landscape. I added my movement to theirs and began walking in-between the houses. The "other-world" feeling intensified as those people I passed gave me quizzical looks. In these areas, Russians are even fewer than in Kyzyl, so any European face stands out. Add my very German/Scandinavian face and I became even more of a sight in such a small town. As I made my way through the neighborhood, I could not help but feel an odd sense of a clash of cultures.

A monument commemorating the 90th anniversary of the
founding of the Tuvan People's Republic.

This was not the first time I had experienced such a feeling in Tyva. Indeed, the whole republic is a crossroads of peoples. Kyzyl is a city that was founded by Russians, yet today is inhabited by a majority of Tuvans. In many ways it makes sense that in the capital, there is more Russian-ness. Telli however is a Tuvan village, supposedly founded in the days when the Chinese Empire ruled the land (1800s). Therefore seeing Russian influence here is quite different than in Kyzyl. There are reminders everywhere that Tyva has only been in the Russian sphere of influence for 100 years. Russian and Tyva are seem as partners instead of one and the same entity. In Telli this is even more evident than in Kyzyl, as the locals continue on as they have for generations. Staunch communists here did not cast aside their nomadic traditions and forsake their native tongue. Russian is used as needed, but Tuvan rules the day.

I could not however spend my whole day walking. I had an appointment at one of the local schools. I met the English teachers, sitting down for tea and treats. Then I was shown into a large classroom with around thirty students eagerly awaiting the arrival of "the American." Questions were posed back and forth. I showed pictures of "My America" and talked about my life there. They shared about themselves and their home. It was a firsts for them in two ways. First off, I was the first American they had ever met and secondly, I was the first native English speaker they had ever met. For them learning English is such a remote location, it was a spark for me to be there with them. For many years they have been taught English, told that they should learn it, but what for? With little practical application, it is hard to teach a foreign language. Their teachers though do an excellent job at giving the students practical applications for  the language. My time with them was just a part of their greater work.

Overall it was a fun meeting. They were surprised when I showed them my American cell phone and asked why I did not have an Iphone. I brought with me various souvenirs of American life: greeting cards, money, passport, driver's license, etc. At the end of the lesson, I decided to hand out the coins that I had as mementos for the students. Everyone got either a penny, nickel, quarter, or dime. As I left the school to walk back to the house where I was staying, I was stopped on the street by a group of 6th graders, who asked where I was from and why I was in Telli. We chatted, while they ran around me and asked all sorts of questions. Then as we parted I handed them all coins. Luckily, I had just enough.

The rest of my stay was spent resting, eating, and chatting lively with my hosts and friends. The cow was by then almost chopped up and the meat divided up between the families. The original plan was to stay until Sunday morning, but the plans changed we decided to leave Saturday evening instead. Gathering around the kitchen table one last time, we shared a very filling meal before heading out on the road.


I stepped out of the house to enjoy the final moments of quiet and to see the stars as they began to appear in the sky. Around us stood majestic mountains, visible only by their silhouettes in the sunset. It was so calming. It was also a chance to stretch my legs before we all crammed back into the car. For the return trip, we were joined by my colleague's father-in-law, who was going to Kyzyl to help his daughter with some things. We left as night darkness descended upon the land, five souls crammed into the car.

 We made the trip back a bit quicker than five hours. By 11 PM, I was once again in my room, stretching and warming myself up. Bai-Taiga awaits my return.

Tyva: Russia Beyond the Mountains

Hello!

    I was recently asked by my colleagues in the English department to write a piece on my impressions of Tyva. I would like to share it with you below. I drew some of the material from my previous post, so this may sound familiar to many of you already.

Now, the window here is not the best for viewing, so I would recommend downloading the file and reading it like at. You may download it by either:
1. Clicking on "Fail" and selecting "Download"
2. Or by using the command "ctrl + s"

I hope you enjoy the article!

All the best,

Joey

A Month of Silence: Musings

Dear readers,

     It has been exactly a month since my last post. I apologize for the silence. I would offer excuses, but there are none that really justify my silence. A week past and November approached and all the while I sat without a topic to write about on the blog. I panicked and thought the next week would bring inspiration, but alas none was to be found. So that is how the last four weeks passed without as much as a note reassuring you of my existence. I am alive and doing well. Work has increased and as a result I find myself tired at the end of every week, but that is a sign of good, hard work. Teaching is my main occupation here, but that is not the only focus of my energy. In addition to working with students and teachers to increase the level of English proficiency at Tuvan State University, I am involved in the active effort of providing opportunities for our students and teachers to travel abroad, in order to study or work and thus raise their language proficiency (in English or any other language) and increase their experience with which they will return and share with others here. Likewise, we are engaged in efforts to bring foreign scholars to TuvSU.

One tangible product of these efforts has been updates made to the website of the Center of International Relations. At the moment, we only have a Russian language version, so for those who don't know Russian (learn it!), you can admire at least the visual layout: http://www.ms.tuvsu.ru/?q=node/48#overlay-context=node/46%3Fq%3Dnode/46
Click on the links and explore! This page and the linked pages were created by me. The focus is on study and work abroad for students and employees of TuvSU.

Для тех, кто умеет читать по-русски, я понмаю, что там есть МНОГО ошибок. Прошу Ваше терпение. Всё исправлю скоро. :-)

And now time for a shameless plug! If you or anyone you know are interested in studying/working at or visiting TuvSU, let me know!

In addition to work, I've been spent a lot of time thinking. My walk to the main campus and my marshrutka ride (recounted here for those who missed it) offer me plenty of time to muse over plenty of themes. Below, I offer them to you as means of sharing some perspective on this small part of the world and also for you to think about in your own ways.

Tyva: Russia beyond the Mountains
Some of you may have noticed that there are two methods of spelling "Tyva". The reason for this stems from the spelling of the name of the republic in Russian versus the Tuvan spelling. In Russian, it is usually spelled "Тува" (pronounced "Tuva"). The "у" sound in Russian is commonly transcribed into English as "u". In Tuvan however, it is spelled "Тыва" (pronounced "Ty(ee)va). The "ы" sound commonly being transcribed as "y". Both are correct, but I prefer the native spelling to that of the Russian. I arrived here about two months ago knowing absolutely nothing about this place, besides throat singing and that it was not connected to any city by rail. Two months later and I still know regrettably little, but I have ever so slightly began to expand by knowledge of Tyva.

This land is very rich in what it has experienced throughout history. Tyva is a place that still "remembers" to an extent, the Mongols of old, those that rode across the known world, conquering everything and only barely being stopped on the edges of Europe. Chingis is still a popular name here in Tyva (as in Chingis Khan) and the traditions of the Mongols are not that far removed from those of the Tuvans. Indeed, we must remember that our contemporary conception of the world is made up in the sense that borders are drawn and easily erased. Tuvans are found in Mongolia as well, so it is very likely that among the armies that flew across the steppes and conquered the Rus' were quite a few Tuvans. Going back even further, there is evidence that some Tuvans are related to the early peoples of the Americas. I have even seen several people here who have the same facial makeup of our First Nation Peoples. This place is a crossroads of cultures and that remains true to this day. Walking along the streets and teaching in the university, I observe the mix of Russian and Tuvan and western and eastern language, culture, and mentalities. And yet despite this mix, Tyva has succeeded in preserving its uniqueness even into the 21st century. The reason for this lies both in the geography and the history of the region.

How Tyva became a part of Russia is an interesting story. The Russians began moving into what is now Siberia early on after the defeat of the Mongols. Towns were founded and colonists sent forth to this new land. Wars and ambition in the west, slowed down the growth and expansion in the east. Taming the Caucasus also became a priority of the government as did defeating the Turks (approximately from 1703 to the 1850s). This allowed the Chinese some chance to also move north and take control of Mongolia and Tyva. In Tyva especially from what I understand, the Chinese hold on the territory wasn't especially strong, but in any case it kept the Russians from just waltzing in, at least until ambitions in the west were halted. Russia lost the Crimean War and with it any more opportunity to take more land from the Turks, halting advances to the west. Furthermore, the Caucasus were tamed. Being blocked to the north, west, and south, the empire set its sights to the east (and south east). In what is referred to as "The Great Game", the Russians little by little moved southeast through Central Asia, bringing "the stans" into the confines of the empire. Likewise, eastward expansion was viewed as a necessity into Asia. Tyva comes into the story as the leaders of Russia saw the Chinese and Japanese as competitors in the region. Eventually, this led to a war with Japan (which the Russians lost) and the establishment of a protectorate in Tyva. The Chinese were evicted and Russians started moving in to set up shop. It was already the beginning of the 20th century at this point. The Trans-Siberian Railroad was complete, but the nearest stop was many, many miles from Tyva. Furthermore, events in the west (a world war as well as poverty and discontent) prevented a flood of new arrivals from settling down. Also, there was quite a large population of natives already present. After the revolution and civil war, Tyva refrained from joining the Soviet Union and instead created its own republic (the Tuvan People's Republic). The Soviet Union of course maintained a strong influence on Tyva, especially in terms of foreign relations, but the Tuvans handled domestic affairs. This included the preservation of the native language of Tuvan, with some changes being made, specially in terms of the writing system. Tyva did become a part of the Soviet Union (joining with the Russian part), but because of its late entrance into the game, Tuvan is spoken today as a native language and can be heard more often than Russian.

The remoteness of Tyva also plays its part in the uniqueness of the region. The mountains act as guardians of Tyva, keeping the outside world away. Of course, walls have two sides and vice versa, Tuvans also find themselves cut off from the outside world and do not travel that often. Yet the mountains are just as much an insulator as they are a barrier.

The point I am wanting to make here is that Tyva is a country within a country. This isn't "Russia", but the Russian Federation, a distinction we don't often make enough yet one that paints a more diverse picture of this country. I'll write a bit more on this topic in later posts.

The language infrastructure
I'm not sure if this term exists in language teaching, but I'm using it here to mean the infrastructure present in a given language for language study. Components include: print resources (books, magazines, etc), electronic resources (music, movies, websites), native speakers, and efficient teaching methods. The purpose of the Fulbright English Teaching Assistant program is to send grant recipients to places that I would describe as weak in language infrastructure. Despite the remoteness that I discussed in the previous section, Kyzyl has a sufficient amount of these resources except the native speaker. The rest of Tyva is a different story. Having not traveled around I cannot comment on the language structure of these places, but I can imagine they lack most of these resources.

However, I would still described the language infrastructure of Kyzyl as weak. I recently learned that the Internet only fully appeared in Tyva in 2005. At the present, access to the Internet is still limited and mostly acquired through cell phones. Wi-Fi networks are few and far between. Mobile access for computers can only be achieved through modems, yet even with these the service is not always the best. Computer access is also limited to those who can afford it. With so much material located on the Internet and in electronic form, students of foreign languages are lacking an important tool in their language acquisition. Furthermore, with the lack of native speakers in the region, the Internet is even more helpful as a means of interacting with native speakers and materials written for native speakers (known as authentic materials). The remoteness of the region plays a large part in this. In terms of teaching practices, there is also a lot to be learned and shared. Having interacted with teachers of English, I have noticed a trend that even those teachers who at one point commanded English with a high proficiency has lost a lot of English over the years due to the lack of contact with the target language. There is also the idea that a foreign language teacher will begin to speak at the level of the students they teach if they do not maintain practice at a higher level.

All of this paints a pretty dire picture of the language infrastructure, but the situation is by no means without a remedy. In fact, I actually see in all of this a lot of opportunities for those who are willing to put in the effort. Here are some of the things I wish to see done in terms of the English language infrastructure (but these ideas could be adapted to any language):

1. More native speakers. The university is committing itself to bringing in foreign scholars which in turn increases contact between Tyva and foreign institutions. If the common language between the locals and foreigners, then so much the better. To go even further, I would like to see the university hire at three native speakers to work in full-time positions for the academic year. On a broader scale, I would like to see a few more native speakers come here to work independently. In terms of paid teaching opportunities, many people are looking for private tutoring opportunities for all ages and there are also a few English language schools in Kyzyl. There is also an abundance of volunteer opportunities to supplement anyones time.

2. Send more students abroad. This issue has many sides to it. First off, there is the money factor. Studying abroad or travelling for an extended period of time requires a lot of money. The challenge then comes in finding ways to finance anyones trip abroad, not just those who can afford it. Secondly, we need to enable students to be competitive in the competitions for grants and scholarships, many of which require essays to be written in English or for the recipients to already command English as an adequately high level. This in turn ties into the presently inadequate language structure. Thirdly, the lack of Internet and computer access prevents students from having the resources to seek out and find the opportunities for study abroad and financing a trip abroad as well as filling out an online application.

3. Teacher training. It is very rare to meet a teacher here who has travelled to an English-speaking country. Furthermore, due to the lack of contact with native speakers, the language level of teacher suffers. The system of teaching in Russia both for foreign languages and in other subjects is also in need of some change. Sending teachers abroad as well as promoting the exchange of ideas between other teachers of foreign languages would go a long way in improving the language infrastructure here. Native speakers are very important, but they are usually not a permanent part of this equation. Local language teachers on the other hand are permanent fixtures in the community and should be trained so as to be as effective as possible.

I shall conclude my musings here with a promise to return to my weekly schedule of updates from Kyzyl. I hope you are doing well.

Peace be with you!


Joey

Кусочек Кызыла (A Piece of Kyzyl): The "Marshrutka"

Orientation is my number one task when I find myself in new environs. At first, this takes the form of much leg movement - exploring streets at random, peeking down alleys, and becoming acquainted with the layout of  a place by logging as many "foot miles" as possible. Then, as I slowly become braver with my mental map, I begin testing the local transportation system. Subways and trains are rather straightforward, as their maps are posted online and in the stations. Subway stops are located near well-known sights or buildings, making orientation simpler. Ground transportation (buses, streets cars, trolleybuses, etc) however presents more of a challenge. Their routes criss-cross the landscape seemingly at random. Hopping onto a bus for example, its easy to become disorientated with the twists and turns made as if at the will of some unseen puppeteer. And yet, the subway lines do not penetrate every corner of a city and in the case of Kyzyl, they don't even exist. The only options left are to walk, run, or grab a "marshrutka".

The word "marshrutka" (маршрутка) comes from the Russian word "marshrut'" or "route". The idea is that this vehicle follows a specific route. It is however not technically a work of public transportation. Marshrutki are owned by private companies or firms (I confess that I know little of the business management side of the marshrutka). They differ from their public transportation counterparts in that they are generally smaller, faster, and for a little bit higher of a fare than found on a public bus, you can hop on and off wherever you'd like along the route. Personally, I usually go for the public transportation option, but in Kyzyl, the buses are much slower and less frequently lumber about than in other cities. From what I've heard, this is because people prefer the much smaller marshrutki and have voted with their ruble to the detriment of the bus. Thus I too, following the example of the locals (when in Rome...), stick my arm out on the street curb to signal.

The conductor at her post.

What awaits a passenger once their marshrutka swerves to pick them up? There are to faces of the marshrutka - the driver, who you see to signal, and the conductor who opens the door at every stop, acts as the go-between for the driver and the passengers, and of course collects the fare (15 rubles in the case of Kyzyl). Inside every marshrutka, the layout is the same - you have the driver up front with two spots available for passengers, then backing up against the driver's seat is a row of seats for passengers. In front of these spots is a space for transit and standing (although to say you can stand is a bit of a stretch, as the ceilings are low), then a solitary seat, two seats, and in the very back are two pairs of seats positioned to face each other.

The back seats - either the best or worst place to sit.

 The rules for sitting are simple - everyone for themselves, except in the case of women and older people. Then, they are given the right of way. This courtesy is more or less adhered to. As much of a part of the "marshrutka experience" the first moments may be, it is the journey itself that defines the whole escapade. Backing up to the description of the vehicle, the specific name of this type of van is "Gazelle". I find this name quite appropriate in every respect, minus the part where predatory animals feed on the gazelle (I don't know if Fulbright's insurance would cover that...).

Just as the gazelle can burst ahead at speeds of 60 mph (thank you Wikipedia), our dear marshrutka quickly winds through traffic and deposits its passengers at any and all destinations. Furthermore, the gazelle is known to jump high. Keeping true to fashion, the marshrutka ride is known and even expected to be QUITE bumpy. This is not do however to hydraulics on the buses, but to the conditions of the roads here in the city and especially outside of the center. For you viewing pleasure and to demonstrate what I mean by bumpy, I direct your attention to the video below:

To clarify, I was only holding my camera - every shake both big and small is the result of the powers of physics working their magic on the marshrutka. The passenger is also at the will of the road as the only seat belts present are the ones holding the back doors together (appreciate the small things). The act of sitting is also something not to be taken lightly while riding. It is a constant game of knowing which side of your body to lean towards. Even the slightest miscalculation can send an unfortunate traveller in the wrong direction in the event of a sudden stop - of which there are many.

Such a task is even more complicated when there are no seats left to take and standing remains the only option. This brings us to the capacity of the marshrutka. Just as they can be related to the gazelle, I would also offer the bag of Mary Poppins as an adequate object of comparison. They may look small, but in fact quite a few people can fit into the salon of the "gazelle". Comfort is of course sacrificed at such a moment. As is safety perhaps. There are however few options but to cram in with the other passengers if you are in a hurry. This happened to me this past Sunday.

I had just finished a lovely hike around the opposing bank of the Yenisei when I needed to head back home. I waited at the bus stop and was very elated to see my marshrutka coming around the corner (it was getting dark and I needed to hurry back). My elation soon turned into an expression of "Ohh...." (with a decrescendo) when the conductor opened the door and all I could see was a wall of people. "Wait for the next one?" I asked myself. My answer came not from my own brain, but from the other people at the bus stop waiting with me. They were not perturbed at the slightest by the situation. One by one they lined up and somehow moved into the marshrutka. I followed suit, not wanting to be left behind. To say the least, we were quite friendly and I was happy that everyone smelled nice. To comment on safety though, ironically it was perhaps more safe with some many people as everyone cushioned one another and kept each other from fallen down during the sudden stops. In either case, I was happy when the first stop was reached and some people stepped out. I was not elated to see a line of people at the stop, waiting for us. I decided to hop off a few stops earlier than needed to enjoy some fresh air and to stretch my cramped legs.

I will admit though, that after the initial shock of being crammed into the bus, I could barely keep from laughing while we bumped back to the center of the city. It was such an experience really. Something to revel in despite perhaps the awkwardness of it all. All of us there were sharing in an experience together and no one really cared whether you were snugged up right next to them (arguably because they had no choice). It's a piece of comradeship and it's a piece of Kyzyl.